Neutral indicator lights work on horizontal motors by supplying a ground connection.  Click here and scroll about half way down the page to see where this connection terminates on the motor.  This green/white wire connects to the black negative wire on the LED and the red positive wire taps into your 12v yellow  power wire assuming you’re going directly to the LED.

Now, while the shell and bracket were reasonably priced, the headlamp itself was not.  That’s okay though, because the headlamp from Baja Designs, which costs around $50, fits the Yamaha bracket perfectly.  That’s right, no modding!!

All I need to do now is fabricate some brackets and relocate all the electronics.

Yamaha part numbers

32D-84330-20 Headlight Shell
32D-84118-00 Headlamp Bracket
90480-16008 Grommet (holds headlamp bracket to the shell)
198-84334-60 Plastic Nuts (x2)
90157-04001 or 341-84331-60 Headlamp Adjusting Screws (x2 )
341-84332-60 Headlamp Adjusting Springs (x2)
32D-84527-00 Damper (long piece of foam that wraps around the edges of the headlamp)

Motor specs

• 2006 CRF50 crankcases bored by Minigunz
• TB 117 Stage 6
• AHP 4 speed
• Takegawa Special clutch
• Takegawa polished ignition cover
• Takegawa 5 row oil cooler
• Earls lines and fittings
• Red Baron HD engine studs

Now before you pop off the stator cover and flywheel, you will need to buy some magnet wire.  I got mine on ebay from magnet*wire*usa.  And, from what I have read online, 18awg and 65 turns seem to be the magic numbers, so that’s what I used.  It cost a little over $20 for 200 feet which I hear is enough to wrap 2 stators.

Okay now that you have acquired your spool of magnet wire, let’s get down to business.   Start by scraping off the enamel coating as shown in the pic below.

Then solder that end of the magnet wire, which I like to call the “start wire” to the post pictured below and wrap 65 turns clockwise.

Here is the first tooth complete.  Now move on to the 2nd tooth and wrap 65 turns counterclockwise.

Here is the  second tooth complete.  Now move on to the 3rd tooth and wrap 65 turns clockwise.

Here is the third tooth complete.   Now move on to the last tooth and wrap 65 turns counterclockwise.

Here is the fourth and final tooth complete and soldered to the last unused post.  The last step is to route the yellow wire through the existing sleeve and solder it to the post shown below.  This will be your light source wire.   Put a connector on the other end and you’re done!  You can buy OEM connectors from vintageconnections.com.

Now assuming you have a wiring harness already wired for lights, hook up the yellow wire from the stator to the yellow from the harness and test it out.  If your harness has 2 yellow wires, you can split the single yellow wire from the stator into both yellow wires from your harness.  Once you know that it all works, remove it and apply some epoxy to the magnet wires to keep them from moving and chaffing.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any direct, indirect, incidental or consequential damages resulting from this how-to, mod at your own risk.

I did notice neutral was a little bugger to find and the light gave slightly false readings at times. Next time I’m going to file down or bend up the edges a tad so there’s just a little less contact area on the switch. I haven’t tried yet, but I might even be able to pop out the neutral switch and try working it with some needle nose pliers.

The install was pretty straight forward, but there’s several things worth mentioning…

These screws are very tough to get out so if you don’t have access to an impact screwdriver, you can use a screw driver bit and a wrench. =)

I drilled the existing hole from the outside of the case and then enlarged it with a 3/8 bit to fit the neutral contact switch.

Here are the parts needed to add the neutral switch.  There are two different models.  The self contained unit 35750-969-000 comes with a sleeved wire with connector pre installed and is enclosed in it’s own case.  The 3 parts bags below this one is more common and is what I used on this motor.

I forgot to include the neutral wire grommet.  That part number is 32981-035-000

Here is the neutral switch installed.

After I removed the high volume oil pump and split the cases, this little guy fell out of the hole.  Remember to check for that and if it falls out, put it back in. =)

Provisions made for the high volume oil pump.

AHP 4 speed transmission, honda kick starter shaft, and TB 51mm crank installed…

Ready for the cylinder…

And, just for fun, here’s what the star looks like as you shift through the gears. =)

Because these rearsets are designed for the JDM Monkey R frame and not the USDM ZB frame, we need to drill a hole here.  Notice the slick template MotoshopZ loans out to their customers that makes life easy.  =)